In the tests I've watched on YT the wire insulation smoked and burnt away before the Wago nut. No straightening of twisted wires as was mentioned and you're not trying to stuff 3 or 4 #12s twisted together into the back of the box. And when you want to change the fixture a couple years from now it's a simple task. Most of the new fixtures have lighter gauge wire and sometimes trying to join that with a traditional twist-on wire nut to a piece of #12 or #14 solid wire can be difficult, especially in tight quarters or with multiple conductors. I like the Wago lever nuts for light fixtures. Probably the most stringent in the world. I have no connection with Wago, but I have use them for years in a professional capacity and know something about the testing and approval regime they have all gone through. If the correct wire stripper is used then there is no increased danger of exposed wires if the transparent plastic is used to view the conductor has reached the end of the receptor, (as per the instructions).Īs with other systems, these connectors are for use either within a cabinet, or in conjunction with the Wago junction boxes that include cable strain relief and are self extinguishing if flamed. This indeed may make it preferable, but there is not a difference in reliability if the wires are stripped and inserted properly. The internal wire clamping mechanism is almost identical, the main difference being the lack of insertion force in the lever types. Have you tried to pull wires out of each? It is just as easy to pull wires out of a lever type.
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